Parabita

In our travels around Lecce, we met up with a group of Australians who were here on a month-long holiday.  We were able to join in the Italian classes they were taking and join in some of the outings the school  had arranged.  The first was a trip to a small town of about 10,000 inhabitants called Parabita not far from Gallipoli.  We were told that we were going to a light show, but were not quite sure what that meant.  What we found was wonderful.

The whole town was decked out with food stands and lighted panels, some of which could be synchronized with music (think the Electric Light Orchestra on steroids).  I tried to upload the Can Can number but the internet here is so slow I gave up.   I may try again later.  We were then treated to the best fireworks-set-to-music show I have ever seen.  And we are in Italy so we could stand right below them.  Not sure how safe that was, but it was amazingly beautiful.  The tower in the pictures must have had enough explosives in it at the start of the show to blow it sky high.

A rainy day in Italy

Last Friday with Jamie in town (she had been working in Italy and Spain for her job with GoPro), we decided to rent a car and drive to Otranto on the Adriatic coast.  It turned out to be the worst weather day we have had since we arrived in Italy a month ago.  As the Italians said, it was “brutto” (ugly).

One of the places we wanted to go was the Laghetto Cave di Bauxite (picture below).  It is a small lake ringed in red bauxite ore that turns into a sticky gooey mess when it gets wet.  It had rained a little before we got there but once we got out to walk around, it started to pour.  You can imagine what our shoes looked like.  We had to take extra special care not to completely ruin the carpet in the rental car.  When we told the rental place where we had been, they suddenly wanted to reinspect the car to make sure we had not done any damage.

With the bad weather and it being a Friday we many of the places to ourselves, but we didn’t want to spend too much time out of the car.  We drove completely around the lower Salentine peninsula from Otranto on the Adriatic to Gallipoli on the Ionian and had lunch in Santa Maria di Leuca, the very tip of the peninsula.  It sits n the dividing line between the two seas.  It seems like the end of the earth.

The grotto just outside of Castro is supposed to be spectacular and there are tours available.  We will save that for a not-so-rainy day.

Laghetto Cave di Bauxite
Great building in Castro
The Castro marina
They don’t look that wet from here

But this picture tells the story

The bridge above the grotto
The grotto entrance
Two of my girls in the rain
Lunch in Leuca
Lunch in Leuca
Palm trees at the edge of the world, Leuca
Like daughter like father
Love this girl
Great clouds over the Adriatic/Ionian
The water is clear at Gallipoli, but what you see is a little weird sometimes
The old fortress at Gallipoli
There seems to be a lot of men in uniform in Italy
Just sitting beside the street gathering cacti

Cimitero (cemetery)

With our daughter, Jamie, here last week and starting Italian lessons this week, we have obviously not gotten around to posting anything to our blog.  I will try  to make up for that today and tomorrow.

Attending a concert of flutes and a harp in the park, we noticed that the cemetery that we had passed several times that as always closed , was open.  We had to go inside to have a look around.  What a stunning contrast to any cemetery I had ever been in.  Some of the family crypts seemed to be as big as small churches.  I think the pictures speak for themselves and I will just say I found the whole place fascinating.

The long entrance
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Termoli

Last Friday (the 13th, how appropriate to be in Templar territory), Holly and I decided to take a 3 and 1/2 hour train ride north to a small town up the Adriatic coast called Termoli (just above the spur of the boot).  It is a place that was recommended by one of Holly’s Italian teachers in Seattle.  If you have ever wanted to visit a small Italian beach town where the sea seems to peek out at the end of every narrow street and passageway, Termoli would be a good choice.  It was still early for actually sun bathing and swimming and the beach was being prepared for what will surely be a busy summer season. I am sure that later in the year, it becomes somewhat of a madhouse of visitors, but we had much of it to ourselves. It has a fairly large fishing fleet and moorage for pleasure boats with several large yachts tied up to the piers.

Cartapesta

I don’t know about everyone else, but my impression of paper mache has always been to make a mess when I was a kid.  We would soak newspaper in water with glue in it and whatever came out, we had a good time.  As we traverse the world, we find that others have different priorities.  Who would have thought that in some corners people take it seriously and create objects of real beauty.  Here in Lecce it is an art form.  The following are all paper mache, cartepesta, for sale around Lecce.

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The journey continues

We will soon settle down to a more regular routine, but for now the adventure just continues.

I had contacted a friend of a friend, Rosita D’Amaro, who has her permanent residence in Amsterdam, but teaches Turkish literature for part of the year at the university here in Lecce.  We were going to meet up over the weekend, but she became ill and we needed to postpone it.  She called us yesterday to say that she needed to run an errand to buy a wedding present for relative and asked if we would like to accompany her to visit the studio of relatively famous Italian stone artist, Renzo Buttazzo (www.renzobuttazzo.it).  For those of you who know Holly and I, you know we jumped at the chance.  Again, we hopped in a car with someone we barely knew and braved the Italian highways (they really don’t seem to understand the idea of lanes).  What a treat!  Renzo was was such a genuine person with so much passion and love for what he does, we could not help but get caught up in the the day, the art and the person.  I just hope the pictures capture even part of the magic.

The artist, the friend and Holly

The tools

The workshop

The workshop

The hands that do the work, the stone here is very soft and he uses woodworking tools
The bench
That is all one piece of rock. The dark part was created by flaming it.

I think Holly found her place in the sun

One final note for today, as many of you know Holly is planning on continuing to teach via the internet while we are here.  We thought ourselves very smart by buying a roll up keyboard and taking it with us.  After having played with it for a little bit, she decided it just would not do.  So today we purchased an electronic keyboard,. Not her Steinway, but we are hoping it will suffice.    We have it set up on our ironing board and here is her new piano studio:

Oh, the sacrifices we make

Gallipoli: a port city in Italy, not the famous battle site in Turkey

Our new-found friends, Lili and Robert from Espressino Travel, invited us to a performance of some traditional music and dancing on Sunday evening not far from Lecce.  When we arrived, it was a beautiful, clear Italian afternoon, not a cloud in the sky.  However, we were told that the performance had been postponed due to the torrential rain that had just occurred (we saw little trace of it).  As we looked around, we discovered that we were in an old quarry.  That was interesting all by itself. I have included some pictures below.

Not to be deterred, Lili and Robert suggested we take a side trip to Gallipoli and have dinner.  Turned out to be a great idea.  We had a delightful dinner on a rooftop deck at sunset.

The magic just seems to continue.

Lili and Robert
The quarry
Interesting parking job
Gallipoli
They do churches right here

Part of the fishing fleet

Old town Gallipoli in the back ground
Beautiful sunset from Gallipoli

Our dinning spot

The promised monastery picutres

All I did was go to the directory where the pictures from the Nikon live and changed my view from a list to large icons and when I went to try the upload again, it worked.  Sometimes the mysteries of computers are beyond me, but I got it to work so I won’t question the method.

Friday, Holly and I wandered out of the Porta Napoli (old gate in the city walls that leads to the road to Naples) and found this wonderful old monastery that is now part of the local university.  I thought it was worth a look.

The Porta Napoli is just a few blocks from where we are staying
The courtyard
The clock (actually sundial) tower
The sundial, the time it kept didn’t seem to relate to the time of day. Maybe we just couldn’t read it right.
The stairs leading to the upper level. I love how the soft stone has worn away over the centuries.
The roof top courtyard

The issues we have

With my learning to configure this blog and internet issues in Italy, this is all a learning experience.  On Friday I decided to use my smaller camera to take pictures of an old monastery that now is used by the University of Salento  and got a couple of nice shots.  The problem is that for some reason they won’t upload to the blog site.  I just get an http error.  When I go to help, it is written in a version of techno babble that is beyond my current understanding.  I will load those pictures once I figure it out and use only my other camera until I find the cure.

In the meantime, last night we met up with the people who run a local tour company, Espressino Travel (www.espressinotravel.com), Lili and Robert.  After an aperitivo at one of the local cafes, we strolled about town and ran into a lovely Irish couple that Lili and Robert knew and we all ended up eating what is claimed to be the best pizza in Puglia while sitting on the steps of one of the many churches in Lecce.  We are told that is the only way to eat pizza here.  By the time we were finished, the steps were full of locals eating their pizzas and chatting.  In case it isn’t obvious, it was truly a magical evening.

I will post the old monastery pictures tomorrow.

On to the sea

After exploring Lecce for the last several days, we went in search of the bus that would take us to the Adriatic.  It was a little work but with the help of a friendly Italian man, we boarded the bus (with a little trepidation).  The ticket machine on the bus was out of paper, so the ride was free.  20 minutes later we were on the seashore.    As we got off the driver let us know that he was returning to Lecce in 45 minutes and if we were not on board, we would need to wait 4 hours to return to town.  We had a quick beer and lunch and just barely made it back to the bus stop.  The return trip was also free.

Santa Croce – One of the many churches in Lecce

Holly says that driving this thing must be the most boring job in the world

City Garden in Lecce

Piazza Sant’ Oronzo – Lecce’s main square

Down by the sea
The place we had our lunch on the beach
The food was great
I love big clouds over the sea.