I started this post over a year ago, but somehow with everything else going on, I just could not finish it. Perhaps, now is a better time anyway.
Because of COVID-19 outbreak, several of our friends have had to cancel (or at least postpone) their trips to Italy and specifically Venice. Although, we live only a quick 30-minute train ride from that beautiful city and we normally go there quite often, we have not been allowed to travel outside of Padova for quite some time. That has now changed, and more travel is allowed.
With all the tensions around the world right now, I thought many of you might enjoy a virtual photo tour of Venice to refresh your memories or inflame your dreams. Many of you have visited Venice and I am sure most, if not all, of you have seen many pictures of it. But whenever we visit, I can never resist taking a few more photographs and some are of the smaller out-of-the-way places.
Although, there are traces of inhabitants in the lagoon dating far back into history, the real buildup of what we now call Venice began in the 5th century C.E. The Western Roman empire was coming apart and the inhabitants of the Veneto region sought refuge in the Venetian lagoon to protect themselves from the encroaching barbarians (Attila et al) from the north. Since the invaders came from lands not bordering the sea, their knowledge of boat building was minimal, so it was much safer to be on an island in a lagoon than on dry land. These refugees used fishing and the salt trade to establish a flourishing republic that lasted for over 1,000 years, finally coming to an end at the hands of Napoleon in the late 18th century. At its height, the Venetian Republic was one of the most powerful political and commercial forces in the Mediterranean and with trade routes reaching to the Far East, perhaps the world.
ARRIVAL – When you arrive by train and exit the station, you are immediately confronted with the Grand Canal and a view of the Chiesa di San Simeon Piccolo on the other side. It makes a rather nice welcome to the city. When we go there with friends, I always try to take a shot of them with the canal and church in the background.
CANAL GRANDE – This reverse-S-shaped waterway is the main thoroughfare of the city. With only four bridges over it, all walking tours must include a strategy of where and how many times you intend to cross it. With the exception of these times of the pandemic, it is always teeming with boats of every size and description: vaporettos, gondolas, water taxis, working boats of all types and also many small private boats all moving to an improvisational choreography that defies reason. How there are not more accidents is a wonder for the ages.
PONTE DI RIALTO – No trip to Venice is complete without a visit to the Rialto Bridge. Of the 391 bridges in Venice, this is by far the most famous. It is the site of the first bridge over the Grand Canal. Originally it was a wooden structure and has been rebuilt several times over the centuries. It is a favorite of tourists and the central passageway is lined with jewelry, leather, and other high-end shops. All boats that service the city must be designed to easily fit under its arched opening.
BASILICA E PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO – Another of the truly magnificent landmarks of Venice is the Basilica of Saint Mark and its grand piazza. The architecture of the Basilica is, in my opinion, the height of Venetian design. The piazza is still the center of activity and most civic events take place there.
PALAZZO DUCALE – Sitting right off of Saint Mark’s Square, The Doge’s palace is one of the most distinctive pieces of architecture in the world. I always imagine what it must have been like to be a foreign dignitary arriving by sea and being greeted by this building and the city dignitaries (“Serenissimi”). It was the center of civic life of the “Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia” (Most Serene Republic of Venice). It is just as magnificent on the inside where murals of historic events adorn the the walls of grand halls where nearly all civic meetings and judicial procedures took place.
GONDOLE – I am never quite sure what to think of these magnificent throw-backs to a time when they were essential transportation for the functioning of the city. They have since been replaced by vaporettos and water taxis for actual transportation, but I love to watch them ferry tourists around the city and even listen to the occasional tourist who is fulfilling what I am sure was a lifelong dream of singing an aria from a gondola and listening to it reverberate off of the decaying walls of a tiny canal. If you love a ride around Central Park in a horse-drawn carriage, a ride in one of these is somewhat like that, but on steroids.
PICCOLI CANALI and other interesting pictures – It is so easy to get lost in the maze of walking paths and all of the bridges and canals of this city. I am not sure how anyone got around the city before the advent of Google Maps and even with that aid it can still be an adventure as satellites are not always able to penetrate into every nook and cranny. My advice is to sit back and enjoy the ride. It is, after all, rather small and you cannot get too lost because it is very difficult (well actually, impossible) to walk off the central islands in the lagoon by mistake.
WORKING BOATS – Another of my fascinations in this city are the working boats. When you think about all of the goods and services needed to supply a tourist destination of this size, the logistical problem is immense. Now consider that, with the exception of a few hand carts for luggage and garbage, there are no wheeled vehicles allowed. That means that everything is delivered and removed by boat. The pilots of these boats are remarkable in their ability to guide their crafts through the labyrinth of canals and other boats to deliver all of the supplies needed to maintain this magical place.
CARNEVALE – Like many places around the world, Venice has had to cancel many activities. Carnivale was one of the victims and has been cancelled the last two years and it is missed. From the parades on the canals to people parading around in costume for many days, it is a great celebration and should be welcomed back in 2022.
OTHER ISLANDS IN THE LAGOON – Some locals refer to the paths between the railroad station, the Rialto Bridge and Saint Mark’s as “ant trails”. During the height of a normal tourist season, it can be very difficult to navigate these narrow passageways and in the heat of the summer season, it can become stifling. If you visit Venice, take some time to visit some of the other islands in the lagoon: Lido, Giudecca, Murano, Burano, and even the cemetery has its own island. All are reachable by vaporetto and are much more tranquil than the central cluster of islands with their “ant trails” and are worth your time.
MURANO GLASS – More than just the fancy glass produced there today, the furnaces of Murano were at the forefront of the development of modern glass, especially large sheets. One of the reasons for leaded glass was that only small pieces of glass could be produced. So in order to make a window, you needed to attach many small pieces together. There was one fun bit from the TV series, “Versailles” about Murano. Louis XIV had been upset that he could not get a mirror that could give him a satisfactory reflection of himself and he had rejected several. Later in the series, it was said to him that he should look at the new sample that had arrived. It was a much improved mirror because the factories in Murano were making great advances in not only glass but mirrors as well.
REGATTA STORICA – Every year (these covid years excepted) there is a historic regatta on the Grand Canal. With historically accurate boats and everyone in full costume. It is in early September and is something right out of a Canaletto painting.
CRUISE SHIPS – Please keep them out of the Lagoon!
A little side note for those of you who made it to the end of this rather long post is that on April 28th we celebrated our 5th anniversary of arriving here in Italy. We are never sure what the future holds for any of us, but this has been an incredible experience for both of us and we are grateful for the good fortune we have had. Thank you for reading about our adventures and we hope they bring you a little joy in these rather trying times.
