As we looked for a strategy to explore more of Tuscany (we have both been to Florence several times and we stayed in Lucca for a month in 2016 just after we moved here), we decided to stay on the sea at Livorno and rent a car so we could drive into the hills to explore places that are somewhat difficult by train or bus. This turned out to be a good choice for us and we had a great time.
Livorno is a port city of approximately 160,000 inhabitants located on the west coast of Tuscany. When the port of Pisa silted up in the 13th century, Livorno (once known to the English as Leghorn) became the major port city for Tuscany. The Medici family had a major influence here and their traces can be seen everywhere.
At one point the city decided to install a series of canals and waterways and there is even one neighborhood that is referred to as “Venezia Nuova” (New Venice). We stayed in an apartment with a view of one of those canals and the Fortezza Nuova (a Medicean fortress that is now a park).
The Ever Changing View From our Apartment
I think this may have been my favorite view from any stay we have had here in Italy. It seemed that every time I looked out the window, it was different, but always a wonder to behold.
The Various views of Livorno
We spent one day exploring Livorno and wondering around its streets, canals and the seaside plaza/walkway. It was a little cool, but the skies were beautiful and at this time of year nothing was over crowded. We had great food, great wine and a great time.
The Market
Full of all the fresh fish, meat, cheese, baked goods, fruits and vegetables you could want, this indoor market, with skylights to provide all of the illumination you need, was a delight to shop for our food during our stay in Livorno.
Quattro mori
Perhaps the most famous statue in Livorno, the Four Moors was commissioned by Cosimo II de’ Medici in the 17th century to commemorate the various victories of his father, Ferdinando I de’ Medici, over the Moors. Perhaps, like the monument to Christopher Columbus in Genova, with a bare breasted native american maiden sitting at his feet like a prize from the new world (see post on Genova), it may seem a little politically incorrect (Holly says that by today’s standards, it is horribly incorrect), but the bronze figures in chains , subjugated as they are, are magnificent pieces unto themselves.
Next up will be some views of the Tuscan hills.