Took a drive to go snorkeling in the Adriatic and stopped for lunch at this restaurant with a view.
Sent from my phone. Please, excuse any typos.
With all of my trips to Europe, and the year we have now spent here on this trip, I had never yet been to Venice until the trip we took a few weeks back. It had become a bucket list item and needed to be attended to before too much more time had expired. It was worth the wait and the effort to go.
I sometimes wonder at the ease with which we are able to take these trips. Visiting Venice from our current location is not much more difficult or expensive than visiting say Spokane or Portland from Seattle. If we don’t take advantage of the proximity of all that our current location has to offer, I would never forgive myself.
This trip was with just the two of us wandering through grand streets and small alleyways of a magnificent city. Couldn’t resist this great picture of my best travel buddy.
When I see the thousands of tourists from all over the world and everyone of them is using a camera or a smart phone to snap pictures of everything in sight, I can sometimes wonder why I even bother. Venice has to be one of the most photographed cities on earth, and for good reason. It is remarkably beautiful from every angle. But I, like everyone else, believe in the uniqueness of my own eye and that I will bring new perspective to the table. Later in this post I will add some pictures of the most common sights if only to prove we were actually in Venice, but first something a little different.
Venice is made up of several islands that are part of an archipelago of over 30 inhabited islands in the middle of a lagoon off the Adriatic Sea. Although there is a causeway leading to Venice, it ends immediately in a parking lot (upper left in the NASA photo below).
There are no cars, bicycles, scooters or horses. Everything that moves within the city goes by boat, foot or hand cart. That means that the tons of food, domestic supplies, worthless trinkets, high fashion clothing and jewelry, and even construction material needed by the residents and tourists are delivered by one of those methods. Boats are designed to carry all of that and still fit under the seemingly endless variety of bridges they need to navigate. Hand carts must be hauled over those same bridges and some are designed with large pneumatic tires to aid in that task. Even the mountains of garbage and recyclables generated by all those people are first emptied into hand carts and loaded onto boats and barges to be taken off the various islands. The logistical task is enormous, but it all seems to be taken in stride. After all, they have been at this for centuries.
The ever-present gondolas are a bit pricey and seem similar to the horse carriages in some cities, maybe romantic but a little too steep for what you get. They are beautiful crafts and I love watching others being moved around the city in them
In addition to the “S”-shaped Grand Canal there are smaller waterways everywhere. You need to plan your walks carefully or you can do a lot of backtracking to find the right bridge to get you where you are going. On all of the waterways you see smaller personal boats tied in front of houses and water taxis depositing their passengers all over the city.
For my theater friends, I could not resist a few pictures of this oddity. They took an old theater right in the heart of Venice and converted it into a supermarket. It seemed very fancy and had a great selection.
Like I said, I had to add a few shots of the major sites. From the Rialto Bridge, aerial shots of the Grand Canal taken from a terrace located above the Rialto, San Marco (sorry we did not make it inside, but the outside was breath-taking) , the inside of the Doge’s Palace, to the inside of the opera house, Teatro la Fenice, the whole place takes on a magic of its own. Since there are no cars it is easy to imagine yourself wandering the streets of a renaissance city still ruled by the Doge.
We needed to get out of the city for at least one day and took a boat to visit the islands of Murano (famous for its Murano glass) and Burano (famous for its colored houses).
On our last day we stopped to have lunch at a restaurant on the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge with a great view. The proprietor of the place, Stefano, noticed me taking pictures and as he is also a photographer, we spend the next 20 minutes chatting about the city, photography and the state of the world. It was a lovely way to end the visit.
Budapest was the first trip we had taken out of Italy since December and the first with any of our Italian friends. Roberta and Maurizio proved to be great traveling partners and we had fun with the fact that in Hungary more English is spoken than Italian so, for a change, we needed to translate menus, etc. for them.
Let me just say this about the weather, it was not always warm.
As many of you already know, this place was once two (three if you count Òbuda) different cities, Buda and Pest occupying opposite banks of the second longest river in Europe, the Danube. Buda being on the hilly right (west) bank and Pest occupying the rather flat left (east) bank. They became one municipality in the 19th century. You get all of the grand views of the area from the hills above Buda and all of the nightlife, most of the shopping, restaurants, the rail station and the airport are on the Pest side.
We found this place to be enchanting and despite the fact that they have great public transportation, we walked several miles a day to take in the sights and smells of this cosmopolitan city.
Like many of the places we have visited, Budapest has a long and varied history of one empire or another taking control. The Celts, the Romans, and the Ottoman’s all had their day. It was, for a time, the co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. One of the tragedies of the 20th century was the revolt against the Soviet Union in 1956 that was so brutally put down. Wherever we went, we seemed to run into tales of World War II and the holocaust.
We visited the beautiful synagogue (one of the largest in Europe) and although it costs to get in, it was worth every penny. There is also a memorial to the nearly 600,000 Hungarian Jews who were either killed in Budapest or sent to concentration camps never to return. The place is as beautiful as it is haunting.
Along both sides of the Danube there are promenades and trams to take you up and down the river. We were walking along the Pest side and we saw in front of us a number of shoes just sitting along the walkway. As we got closer, we realized that they were all cast in iron and had many vigil candles scattered in their midst. Many of you may know the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial, but none of us had been aware of it before we stumbled on it.
During the fascist control in Budapest during World War II, the Arrow Cross militiamen (local fascists) would line people they considered enemies of the state up beside the Danube, make them take off their shoes (as shoes were valuable at the time) and then shoot them in the back so they would fall into the Danube and be washed away saving the cost of burial. 3,500 people (800 of them Jews) were executed in this manner. I am not always moved by war memorials, but this one haunts me like few others (maybe the Vietnam Memorial in DC, but that is personal). Let it serve as a reminder to us all that fear of the “other” and intolerance can lead normal people to do extraordinarily cruel and inhuman things to their fellow citizens.
Let me start this post by saying that Barcelona may be my favorite city in the world. Granted, I have not been to all (or maybe even most) of the great cities, but among the ones I have visited, Barcelona stands out. We were here a few years ago and fell in love with the people, food, transportation, everything Gaudi, and the cosmopolitan nature of the city as whole. This second visit was even better.
However, this trip was more about family than the sites and tastes of this place. The reason we were there was that Holly’s brother, John, his wife, Nan, and their daughter Meliza and her family were there. Meliza works for an airline out of Jackson, Wyoming and they all get standby flight perks. ( Won’t any of my children take the hint and go to work for an airline? Holly and I could use perks like those.) We found places to stay not far from each other and met everyday for food and explorations.
First let me introduce the cast of characters. As noted above there was Holly’s brother, his wife and daughter and her husband Hamilton, son Adriano, and daughters Aila and Aven.
First, Adriano (and of course a marble Buddha, why not?). The whole reason for the trip was that Hamilton was taking him to a soccer match to see his idol, Lionel Messi.
Holly and Nan
Brother John with Holly
Meliza and Aven
John and Hamilton with Nan, Adi, Aila and Aven all going with slightly different agendas
Beautiful Meliza
Adorable Aila and Aven
Aven taking notes with Meliza
The 19th early 20th century artist/architect Antoni Gaudi had a major impact on this city. His fanciful organic touches are seen everywhere, Park Güell (with fantastic views overlooking the city) , apartment buildings and houses. But his masterwork is his cathedral, La Sagrada Familia. He worked on it for over 40 years until his death in 1926. It is still in the process of being built and won’t be finished for many years to come.
With markets, restaurants, pedestrian walkways and one of the best urban transportation systems we have encountered, sights and smells are everywhere in Barcelona and easily accessible.
There is only one caveat if you come to Barcelona. Although Holly and I have never had the experience, several people we know have either been robbed or had their pockets picked here. If you go, just beware that there are sophisticated groups here who want nothing more than for you to go home without all of your property. Be aware of your surroundings and watch your possessions.
It has taken some time to warm up to Genova. It is a big city and a little gritty (what big city isn’t), but some of the views and musicians like the ones in the attached video help.
Lunch in Portofino. This place lives up to the hype. Continue reading Portofino
Sometimes referred to as the Detroit of Italy (that may not be a compliment but it does headquarter FIAT, Lancia and Alfa Romeo), Torino’s population is almost 900,000 people, with a metropolitan area over 2 million. It was the largest city to ever host the Winter Olympics when it did so in 2006. Most people we have discussed this city with agree that the improvements made for the games were the best things to happen to this industrial northern Italian city in many years. The city was spruced up to greet the world and those improvements still show up everywhere. It is a beautiful, clean, well run city with great public transportation, museums and grand architecture. Added to that, the Alps serve as a backdrop and on a clear day you can even see Mont Blanc. Unfortunately, the best we got was hazy, so we never saw it.
When we visit a new city, we always love just meandering around trying get a feel for not only the history of the place but also what it is like for current residents to live there. I realize that when you stay in the historic centers and for the most part visit the grand monuments, architecture and museums, trying to get a feel for contemporary life in a city is at best difficult. If you do not connect with people, you miss out on much of the richness a place has to offer. We had two great experiences with people that enriched our experience in Torino and really made the trip the wonderful experience that it was.
First was with our Airbnb landlord, Renzo. We have been very fortunate over the years finding places to stay with landlords who really care and try to help in every way possible, and our time in Torino was no different. Renzo offered to pick us up from the airport and once we got into town, he gave us a quick tour of the city and took us to an overlook where we had some of the great views you will see in the pictures. The apartment was as wonderful as it was spotless. I wanted to move in.
He pointed out to us the Superga Basilica that is the highest point within Torino and said we had to go. There is a cog wheel train that can be reached by bus and it takes you up to the Basilica. It takes some time, but he said it was worth the trip. The next day we got a text from him that he had the bottle of wine he told us he would bring us (yes, he makes wine, too that is only sold to restaurants) and asked if we would like him to take us up to Superga. We of course said yes. He stopped by, gave us a wonderful bottle of wine, drove us to the Superga Basilica and afterwards we stopped for a bicerin (a Torinese chocolate, coffee, cream and liqueur specialty) in the cafe that invented it sometime in the 18th century. After all of that, a few days later he picked us up and drove us back to the airport on our departure. I don’t know where these people come from, but I am always grateful for their gracious hospitality.
The second people story begins with Holly’s Italian teacher in Seattle, Roberta, who was born and raised in Torino and her parents still live there. As a matter of fact they have been living in their current 4th floor apartment and working in their hair studio on the ground floor of the same building for 52 years. Holly had made a plan with Roberta (who is herself as beautiful, gracious and generous as the Italians we have found here) that if we were ever in Torino we should stop by and meet her parents. So plans were put in place for us to have dinner with them at their home during our time in Torino. It was a little slow getting started as they had just returned from a trip and had been delayed. We arrived at the appointed time, (as Americans do) 7:30, and Enzo, the father, was a little frazzled and his wife, Carmen, was not to be seen. We offered to take a little walk around the neighborhood. He seemed relieved and said that would be a good idea. We took our walk for about a half an hour and when we returned Carmen was their and dinner was well on its way. Their son, Donato, who was also coming called and said he was stuck in traffic and would be late so we sat, drank some wine, ate some appetizers and had a great conversation with the two parents. They spoke no English, but Holly was up to the challenge. I understood most of what was being said, but I still have trouble speaking. Donato arrived at about 8:45 and we all sat down to one of those homemade Italian dinners we all wish we could create. We ate, we drank and we talked until almost 1am and then Donato drove us back to our apartment, I am not sure we have had a more charming evening on this incredible journey.
The Torinese claim they have the largest open air market in Europe and I saw nothing that would allow me to dispute that.
A small part of the old Roman wall is still standing and Julius and Augustus are standing guard.
In addition to the beautiful Basilica and magnificent view of Torino, the Superga hill was also the site of one of the worst tragedies in soccer history. In 1949 nearly the entire Torino FC (most of whom composed the Italian national team at the time) was killed when their plane crashed into the back of the hill in the fog. The memorial is located at the site of the crash has become a shrine decorated by soccer fans from all over the world.
Al Bicerin. This drink is so good it is decadent.
We have now visited so many beautiful churches and cathedrals that I don’t post many pictures anymore, but across the piazza from Al Bicerin stands the Santuario della Consolata. The inside was so breathtaking, I needed to add a couple of pictures.
Our new friends in Torino and the authors of an evening that will be cherished by us forever.
Next up: Barcelona and Budapest
are two of the more popular cities to visit in Puglia (the region where we live, sometimes referred to as Apulia in English) and sit between Bari and Brindisi
is relatively famous in Italy and referred to as the “la Città Bianca” (the White City). It sits on a plateau overlooking not only the Adriatic Sea to the east, but also the Valle d’Itria to the west. It is clearly visible from the train between Bari and Brindisi as a white citadel overseeing your trip down the Adriatic coast.
Like many places we have visited in this area, its history of habitation dates back to the stone age and it has been conquered and reconquered more times than I have space to outline here. The current old city dates back to medieval Norman times. With its narrow streets and views to the Adriatic, it is a wonderful place to spend time strolling and shopping. Should you ever visit, be aware that like some other cities we have visited, the train station is not in the center of town, but rather on the coastal plain and the city is either a bus or a taxi ride away. You could walk (it is only a mile and a half) but the road was not made to handle pedestrians and if you know anything about drivers here, you probably don’t want to take the chance.
is one of the stops on the regional train from Lecce to Bari and one that we thought little about as we continually passed through it on our way to Bari and other places. Then one day a friend asked us, “Have you been to Polignano a Mare, yet? No? Well, you must go. It a beautiful town hanging over the sea and a you don’t want to miss it.” How do you not give into a recommendation like that?
So we bundled ourselves up on a cool, clear day in late January and took the 45 minute train ride and I must say, it did not disappoint. It is curved around a small inlet with a sandy beach (I imagine it is very crowded during the tourist season) that is accessed by a beautiful path leading down under an arched roadway bridge with restaurants along the way. The edge of he town is perched along low cliffs and lava flows over the Adriatic and is absolutely enchanting.
Since we were there on a cool winter day, there were few tourists and it felt at times like we had the city to ourselves. The only drawback there was that very few of the shops or restaurants in the old city were open. But we found a restaurant and we don’t do much shopping anyway, so all in all it was a win.
Just a couple of weeks after our trip there, Holly found an article on the internet about the 10 most beautiful cities in Italy to visit and Polignano a Mare was on it and I concur. If you are ever in this area, take the time, it is worth the effort.
We are off to Barcelona on Sunday and in the next couple of months we have trips planned to Budapest, Venice and then Albania. Should be interesting.
Jim