Sometimes referred to as the Detroit of Italy (that may not be a compliment but it does headquarter FIAT, Lancia and Alfa Romeo), Torino’s population is almost 900,000 people, with a metropolitan area over 2 million. It was the largest city to ever host the Winter Olympics when it did so in 2006. Most people we have discussed this city with agree that the improvements made for the games were the best things to happen to this industrial northern Italian city in many years. The city was spruced up to greet the world and those improvements still show up everywhere. It is a beautiful, clean, well run city with great public transportation, museums and grand architecture. Added to that, the Alps serve as a backdrop and on a clear day you can even see Mont Blanc. Unfortunately, the best we got was hazy, so we never saw it.
When we visit a new city, we always love just meandering around trying get a feel for not only the history of the place but also what it is like for current residents to live there. I realize that when you stay in the historic centers and for the most part visit the grand monuments, architecture and museums, trying to get a feel for contemporary life in a city is at best difficult. If you do not connect with people, you miss out on much of the richness a place has to offer. We had two great experiences with people that enriched our experience in Torino and really made the trip the wonderful experience that it was.
First was with our Airbnb landlord, Renzo. We have been very fortunate over the years finding places to stay with landlords who really care and try to help in every way possible, and our time in Torino was no different. Renzo offered to pick us up from the airport and once we got into town, he gave us a quick tour of the city and took us to an overlook where we had some of the great views you will see in the pictures. The apartment was as wonderful as it was spotless. I wanted to move in.
He pointed out to us the Superga Basilica that is the highest point within Torino and said we had to go. There is a cog wheel train that can be reached by bus and it takes you up to the Basilica. It takes some time, but he said it was worth the trip. The next day we got a text from him that he had the bottle of wine he told us he would bring us (yes, he makes wine, too that is only sold to restaurants) and asked if we would like him to take us up to Superga. We of course said yes. He stopped by, gave us a wonderful bottle of wine, drove us to the Superga Basilica and afterwards we stopped for a bicerin (a Torinese chocolate, coffee, cream and liqueur specialty) in the cafe that invented it sometime in the 18th century. After all of that, a few days later he picked us up and drove us back to the airport on our departure. I don’t know where these people come from, but I am always grateful for their gracious hospitality.
The second people story begins with Holly’s Italian teacher in Seattle, Roberta, who was born and raised in Torino and her parents still live there. As a matter of fact they have been living in their current 4th floor apartment and working in their hair studio on the ground floor of the same building for 52 years. Holly had made a plan with Roberta (who is herself as beautiful, gracious and generous as the Italians we have found here) that if we were ever in Torino we should stop by and meet her parents. So plans were put in place for us to have dinner with them at their home during our time in Torino. It was a little slow getting started as they had just returned from a trip and had been delayed. We arrived at the appointed time, (as Americans do) 7:30, and Enzo, the father, was a little frazzled and his wife, Carmen, was not to be seen. We offered to take a little walk around the neighborhood. He seemed relieved and said that would be a good idea. We took our walk for about a half an hour and when we returned Carmen was their and dinner was well on its way. Their son, Donato, who was also coming called and said he was stuck in traffic and would be late so we sat, drank some wine, ate some appetizers and had a great conversation with the two parents. They spoke no English, but Holly was up to the challenge. I understood most of what was being said, but I still have trouble speaking. Donato arrived at about 8:45 and we all sat down to one of those homemade Italian dinners we all wish we could create. We ate, we drank and we talked until almost 1am and then Donato drove us back to our apartment, I am not sure we have had a more charming evening on this incredible journey.
The Torinese claim they have the largest open air market in Europe and I saw nothing that would allow me to dispute that.
A small part of the old Roman wall is still standing and Julius and Augustus are standing guard.
In addition to the beautiful Basilica and magnificent view of Torino, the Superga hill was also the site of one of the worst tragedies in soccer history. In 1949 nearly the entire Torino FC (most of whom composed the Italian national team at the time) was killed when their plane crashed into the back of the hill in the fog. The memorial is located at the site of the crash has become a shrine decorated by soccer fans from all over the world.
Al Bicerin. This drink is so good it is decadent.
We have now visited so many beautiful churches and cathedrals that I don’t post many pictures anymore, but across the piazza from Al Bicerin stands the Santuario della Consolata. The inside was so breathtaking, I needed to add a couple of pictures.
Our new friends in Torino and the authors of an evening that will be cherished by us forever.
Next up: Barcelona and Budapest
love all the ancient structures