Malta

When Zach and Shannon were here in December, they offered to use some of their Hilton reward points (with their jobs, they earn them by the bucketful) to take us somewhere.  We looked at several places, but we unanimously chose Malta.  I am sure that there are some of you who know more about this small island republic than I do, but for the rest a little history is always a good thing.

With its strategic location in the middle of the Mediterranean between Sicily and North Africa, it has been the constant target of conquest and control for at least the last several thousand years.  To name only a few of the civilizations that have  ruled this tiny place: the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Moors, Normans and the Knights of St. John (given to them in 1530 by the Holy Roman Emperor much to the chagrin of some the locals,).  The Knight’s domination was ended by Napoleon  on his way to Egypt nearly 270 years later (the Knights are now headquartered in Rome and are still very active part of the Catholic Church). The French only lasted a couple of years and it then went to the British.  Malta was granted independence in the 60s, became a republic in the 70s and is still a member of the Commonwealth of Nations.  It is also one of the smallest members of the EU.

The national language is Maltese (a derivation of Arabic from the time of Moorish domination) but English is also an official language.  Makes it easy for Americans to get around.  It famously withstood an Ottoman siege in the 16th century and the horrific bombing campaign of the Germans during WW II.  It is home to a banking system that rivals any of the tax shelters around the world and houses some of the largest yachts I have ever seen.

There are multiple small harbors filled with every type of vessel from tiny, brightly colored fishing boats to very nice power and sailboats to the mega yachts I mentioned earlier.  Although we were only 6 km or so from the capital city of Valletta, it took almost a half an hour by bus because of all of the weaving around the small inlets between where we were staying and the city.  By the way, the bus system was great, easy to buy passes and they went everywhere.  They even had an online mobile app that tracked timing of the buses that was correct most of the time.

Staying in a Hilton hotel with executive lounge privileges is a rather new experience for Holly and me, but we adapted and made major use of the food and drink offered there.

For the first few days we had great weather for exploring not only the largest island in the group, Malta, but also Gozo, the second largest.  Then a storm moved in and we got treated to wind, rain, thunder and lightning with waves large enough that it seemed at times that they would swallow everything close to the coast.

With its varied background and its place in the middle of the Mediterranean, it has become one of the most international places we have visited.  People from all over the world seem to collect here and their varied influence make for a real diversity of ethnic restaurants and businesses.

Malta is also known for housing some of the oldest freestanding stone structures in the world, boasting several UNESCO World Heritage sites.

There was only one regret we had after our visit.  The island of Gozo had a natural arch on the sea called the Azure Window.  It was featured in several movies and other productions.  We intended to go see it, but just ran out of time.  Unfortunately, the whole structure collapsed on March 8th and we will never have the opportunity again.  I wonder when I will ever learn that lesson.  The arch pictured below was on the island of Malta and although beautiful, just not the same.

Although I know it is a bit late, I do want to share some of our holiday experiences with you and that will be my next post.

In the next couple of months we have trips planned to Torino (Turin), Barcelona, Budapest, Albania and Venice.  Should be some fun posts.

Matera

What can I say about Matera that will begin to describe the wonder of this place?  It is one of the most interesting places I have visited in my life. I will do my best to convey some of the magic this place holds for me.

When you first arrive, it seems like any other Italian city, a mix of new and old, lots of gelato, trinket vendors and street musicians.  But it is so much more.  I was really unprepared for what I would discover.

It has the distinction of being one of the longest continuously inhabited human settlements in the world.  Its history dates back to the paleolithic period.  There are still caves that were inhabited millennia ago and subterranean Roman ruins.  Then there are the Sassi, ravines leading down to the river where the original settlement was established.

The Sassi are filled every imaginal type of structure.  Some dug right into the rock, some built around the rock and some freestanding.  When you are in them, it is so easy to imagine that you have traveled back through time.  So much so that many films use the location to depict ancient cities.  The latest of which was Mel Gibson’s “The Passion  of Christ”.

These areas have not been without their difficulties.  They had been allowed to deteriorate into squalid slums, where some people had squatted without any access to utilities or sanitation.  Finally it was realized that something had to be done and in the 50’s the government stepped in to clean things up.  Now it is a place with restaurants, hotels and B&Bs:  all nestled into these ancient structures.

We took our first trip with our same group of friends (sans the two teenagers) with whom we went to Alberobello.   Holly and I liked it so well that we took train there to see more.  We have barely scratched the surface of what is to be seen among the layers of human history to be found there and will probably go back so we can stay for a day or two.

When we arrived, we strolled around the city, saw the entrance to the subterranean roman ruins and then one of the many overlooks to the first of the Sassi.  It was breathtaking.  As we descended into this ancient tangle of streets and buildings, it finally dawned on me how special of a place this is.  We came back up for a wonderful lunch and like many meals in Italy, it was not fast food.  When we came out of the restaurant it was getting late and in December that means that it will get dark soon.  Our Italian friends started hurrying us along so we could see the rest of the city.  The first Sassi had been remarkable in its antiquity and charm and so I was surprised when Maurizio said we needed to hurry as we wanted to see the “old” part of the city before nightfall.  Are you kidding me?  Well, he wasn’t.  We descended from the plaza outside of the 11th century cathedral (was that a humble brag?) into the next warren of streets, buildings and caves.  We finally arrived at another plaza that overlooked the river along whose banks the original inhabitants settled, but we had no time to descend to it or ascend to the caves we could see on the other side. Some of the caves are natural and were inhabited in the Paleolithic era and some were dug of the rock by early Christians and others as the centuries have passed.

On our return rip, Holly and I did have time to descend to the river, but did not have the time to explore the other side.   That will need to wait for another time.

The cast of characters.

The gang
Lovely Paola
Gianfranco and Maurizio figure it out
Our dear Shannon
Maurizio explains everything
Roberta and Maurizio

The city.

Next up, the Republic of Malta.

Alberobello

We have made several friends here in Italy and it has been a real pleasure getting to know them and helping each other learn our respective languages.  They are always looking to show us the interesting things and beautiful places southern Italy has to offer.  So, back in December, our good friends, Gianfranco and Paola (and their son Cesare) and Maurizio and Roberta (and their son Diego), invited us  (me, Holly, Zach and Shannon)  to visit one of the area’s main attractions, Alberobello.  It is a town north of here that is known for its trulli.  If you don’t know what trulli are,  join the crowd.  I didn’t either until we moved here.  (Holly wanted to make sure that you knew she knew what they were),  They are small round buildings with conical stone roofs.  The story I have gotten is that long ago, if you constructed a round building, it was thought of as a place for animals and the owner did not have to pay taxes on it.  So everyone started building and living in them as a way to avoid taxes.  ( How American of them.)  Now they are spread out over the countryside with Alberobello having the highest concentration.

The gang of 10 from left to right: Diego, Cesare, Gianfranco, Paola, Maurizio, Roberta, Shannon, Holly, Zach and yours truly.

It is kind of like a Hobbit village without as much greenery.

Rows of little round houses

Not all have symbols but a lot do.  See the definitions below.

My apologies, it is a little out of focus, but you get the idea.

A little off the main tourist track, but I loved these little lanes.

The trulli church.

This is just a picture I could not resist.  It is the roots of an ancient olive tree in the middle of town.

Inside they are quite comfortable and many have been made into B&Bs.  My only issue was the lack of natural light.

On our way home, we stopped for dinner and coffee in the delightful little town of Cisternino overlooking Val D’Itria.

Cesare (Gianfranco and Paola’s son), Holly, Paola and Roberta.

Holly and Gianfranco getting into, I will show you my place if you show me yours.

Beautiful vistas and we all had to take pictures.

As we were leaving, night began to fall and the scene turned magical.

We have made great friends and are sharing some wonderful experiences.   Next stop will be Matera.

Thanksgiving

As most of you probably know, Thanksgiving has always been our favorite holiday of the year.  Since graduate school, there has always been a place at the table for not only family, but friends who had no family around to celebrate with. For us, the special meaning of this holiday is that there needs to be only gratitude for the blessings of family and friends.  Patriotism and religion need play no part.  It is just a day dedicated to reflecting on the joy and blessings we have in our lives.

For the last thirty years, we have celebrated Thanksgiving at our house.  There has been a revolving cast of characters over those years and the size of the crowd has varied from 22-32 depending on the what else was going on in peoples lives.  Until a year ago, some of my grandchildren had never had Thanksgiving anywhere else.  For me personally it played a factor in the decision to move to Italy.  It was a hard decision to break the circle of having this celebration at our house in Seattle.

Some traditions just don’t die easily.  Although we missed some family and friends terribly, we did put together a celebration with 18 people in attendance.  Our daughter, Jamie, and our son, Zach, with his girlfriend, Shannon, made the trip to Italy for the occasion.  We then had 13 of our new friends from Lecce at the table.  There was one American, one New Zealander/Aussie (who has an Irish passport and has been here for years), and then 11 Italians, most of whom were experiencing their very first Thanksgiving.  We had a ball.

The day before with our preparatory lunch on the roof top deck.

Italians are understandably proud of the sweets they make here and several brought some to the feast, but you can’t have Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie.   Believe me, no stores here have the canned pumpkin filling and the actual thing is not all that easy to find and since they do not make anything here that requires what we call a pie pan, even trying to find something that might work was an adventure.  With the help of several locals we did find local pumpkins and Jamie and I set out on the somewhat daunting task of making the pie for the first time in our lives.  I can proudly say they turned out very well (Kim, Kira and Becky, Marilyn would have been proud).  The guests loved them.

We had to special order the turkey.  We had been worried that we would not be able to get one big enough when in fact the smallest we could get was 34 pounds! That created several logistical problems in our small not-so-well-equipped kitchen.

The proud butchers.

The brining in the sink.  It was the only thing I could find that was big enough.

It more than filled the borrowed pan.

And completely filled the oven.

The finished product. (photo cred to Jamie, I was a little busy)

Trying to carve this thing might have been the biggest challenge of the day.  But we got it to happen.

All in all, the dinner was very successful and since you need to start dinner here much later, 8 pm at least, we partied until the wee hours of the morning.  I think we finally got to bed around 3 in the morning.

Transforming our living room into a dinning hall for 18 was no easy feat.  We even had to find a second hand store to buy 5 folding chairs.  But in the end it all worked out.

What a lovely group this is.

And Maurizio even brought his guitar to entertain after dinner.

The morning after.

Next up will be several posts of the trips we have taken to some of the many fascinating places we have visited in Puglia and the Salento peninsula.  Many of these trips have been with the same cast of characters.  We have been remarkably fortunate to find such warm, giving and adventurous friends here.

Back in the Saddle Again

It has been a long while since my last post.  In the intervening time we had Jamie for a week, Zach and Shannon for almost a month, celebrated Thanksgiving, visited many interesting places including a week on the island republic of Malta with Zach and Shannon, got through our first Christmas and New Year in Italy, had my computer stolen (that was a set back) and got the first snow here in 13 to 20 years depending on who you talk to.  Not trying to make excuses (well, alright maybe I am), but be forewarned, I am committed to catching up in the next week or two.

Here are a couple of photos to whet your appetite for what is to come.

The view of the Adriatic Sea from the “White City” of Ostuni.

The trulli of Alberobello.

Malta

One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Matera.

More to come soon.

Luna della Croce

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The other night we were going to dinner at some friends’ house and we left a little early so we could make sure to find it.  It was a five-minute walk and we easily identified where we were going.  (Not necessarily an easy feat here in the land of twisting streets where names change and not all are clearly marked.)  So we went for a stroll through the Centro Storico (Historical Center) where we live.  As we approached the 1,800 year old Anfiteatro Romano, we realized that there was a performance about to start.  As near as I can recall the name on the poster, it was called Luna della Croce (Moon of the Cross) or something along those lines.  Our first look was backstage where the cast was preparing for the performance to begin by listening to a pep talk from someone I supposed to be the director.  Great costumes and lots of enthusiasm.

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We walked around to the front and waited a few minutes for the action to begin.   I am sorry I didn’t catch it but the whole thing started with flames and burning arrows, but I did catch the grand entrance of the antagonists as the battle began in earnest.

We had to leave for our dinner engagement before viewing the final outcome, but I am relatively certain that the Christians were triumphant and the world was safe once again.

 

We are in Italy

Dusk on the street where we live.

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We woke up at 7 am in Oakland on Friday, September 30th, to pack and get ready for our move to Italy.  We had not completely unpacked for 3 months.  By 3 pm on Sunday ( 6 am PDT) after spending 16 hours in Rome, we arrived at our apartment in Lecce.  We have now been here for almost two weeks and are starting to settle in.

The first order of business was to apply for our Permesso di Soggiorno (permission to stay). Yes, we needed one more piece of Italian bureaucracy to be in place to be legal here.  I won’t go into the gory details except to say that even though the description looks simple, after filling out 11 pages of information (instructions all in Italian) supplying 15 more pages of documentation, and walking to five different post offices (only two of which were of actual help), we now have an appointment on October 31st (Yes, Halloween) to meet with the magistrate and hopefully become official residents. Phew.

Holly had the disappointment of finding out that the place where she had been able to practice her piano during our time here has closed.  We talked with the owner and he is moving to a small town some 30 miles away.  But as she always seems to do, Holly has have found another solution.  We were on an outing with our former property manager and now friend, Gianfranco Miglietta, and his wife Paola and were discussing the whole piano thing, when Gianfranco casually mentions he has a cousin who is a musician and has a piano.  As I write this, Holly has ridden off on her new bicycle (pictures will follow on the next post) for her first practice session.  The woman has someone or something looking out for her.

Several people have asked for pictures of our place in Lecce, so here goes.

Our street entrance

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The inside courtyardreturn0003
Our front doorreturn0002
The living roomreturn0001
The kitchenreturn0007
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Bedroom tworeturn0009
Our rooftop terracereturn0012
Lunch on the top of the worldreturn0008

Ciao, a presto.

As we leave for Italy

Last afternoon in Oakland having a glass of wine in the sunshine before taking a ferry to San Francisco to have dinner with our daughter, Jamie, last night.

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I know I said the next post would be from Italy, but I changed my mind.  One thing I like about writing like this is to put down ideas before they are allowed to be filtered by the future, so indulge me here as I try to express what is going through my mind just before we board our flight for Italy this afternoon.

Holly ask me a couple of days ago how I was feeling.  I guess I showed something on my face.  My response was that I was (for lack of a better word) wistful.

So far this has been an exciting, very busy adventure and challenge: so much to do, so many places to go and things to see, there has been little time for reflection.  Now the real questions start to creep in about how this will all work out.  Will we be able to cope with actually living in this strange new world we have decided to create for ourselves?  We have given up our house, most of our possessions, the immediate support of family and friends (not to mention one of the most interesting elections in years) to establish ourselves half way around the world.  Can we find enough things of interest to keep us busy?  Will Holly have the opportunities to play her music and have it appreciated.  I can continue to take pictures and write in this blog, which I love to do, but not sure that will be enough.  What will I find to fill my days?

It is all a little scary and exhilarating all at the same time.  I am optimistic even if a little nervous.   We are committed at this point and will just have to wait and see.

Wish us good fortune.

In the USA

Spokane at sunset
Spokane at sunset

It has been a long and sometimes arduous journey since Holly and I made our decision to move to Italy back in January.  After having to pack up and get rid of 37 years of accumulate stuff, we have now been living out of our suitcases since the end of April.

  • Two months in Lecce (after a two-day layover in Rome),
  • a side trip to a wedding in Israel,
  • one month in Lucca,
  • ten days in Ireland,
  • three weeks in Seattle with sister and brother-in-law Catherine and Stuart to prepare the documentation needed for our visa application with a side trip of a couple of days to visit my older daughters and our grandchildren in Spokane (my home town),
  • a week in Mendocino, California with Holly’s brother, John, and his wife, Nan,
  • and then to San Francisco to apply for our Elective Residence visas at the Italian Consulate,
  • a side trip to Yosemite National  Park,  Lake Tahoe and the Napa Valley for 6 days while we waited to hear about our visas,
  • we are now in Oakland until our departure for Italy
  • Phew!

Next week we will return to Italy, departing on the 30th, arriving in Rome on the afternoon of October 1st and then taking a train to Lecce on the 2nd.  I cannot describe how much I am looking forward to unpacking and just chilling for a day or two.

So far I have tried to let our friends and family in the U.S. see and understand where we have been and the experiences we have had in Europe.  But during our sojourn, we have picked up several followers that live outside this country, some of whom have had little exposure to Seattle, the State of Washington and the West Coast of the U.S as a whole.  So for our foreign friends, I am going to post some pictures from our travels in the U.S. since we returned home.

Washington State and Seattle:

Downtown Seattle from Queen Anne Hill

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Mount Rainier ghosting over the Seattle skylineus0103

Puget Sound from Queen Anne Hill in Seattleus0104

Monroe Street Bridge with Spokane Falls during its summer low period from downtown Spokane, my home townus0101

Dry Falls, Washington – 400 feet tall and three and a half miles wide, this was one of the largest water falls in the world during the floods caused by receding glaciers after the various ice ages

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Photo credit: Changstan

Trapper Lake – high in the Cascade Mountains of Washingtonus0118

Mendocino and the California Coast:

The gang with Point Arena lighthouse in the backgroundus0105

It difficult to do justice to this magnificent place in just a few photos, everywhere you turn is one more unforgettable vistaus0106 us0107us0210 us0211

Yosemite and Lake Tahoe:

My best Ansel Adams imitation of El Capitan

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The obligatory picture of Half Domeus0109

Bodie, California – a ghost town that has been left as if the residents had just walked awayus0110

“I ain’t afraid of no ghosts”, with the possible exception of the floating apparition of the strangely familiar face in this imageus0111

They even left the pool tableus0112

Lake Tahoe with its crystal clear waterus0113us0114

San Francisco:

Our friend, the red-tailed hawk, soaring nearly perfectly still in a 25 knot wind as it hunted for prey on the cliffs below the Golden Gate Bridgeus0115

The underside of Golden Gateus0117

San Francisco from Fort Point right under the southern landing of the Golden Gate Bridge

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The next post should be from our new home town of Lecce, Italy.

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Ciao!